Discover the history of stockings and pantyhose from 1900s silk to modern wool tights, and see how we’ve reimagined a 1950s stockings design for today.

Women’s legwear has undergone a remarkable transformation over the last 120 years. From the very beginning, it has been both a practical necessity and a fashion statement, as well as a reflection of social change.

Stockings in the 1900s: Early 20th Century Fashion and Style

In the early 1900s, stockings were practical, but nevertheless still fashionable. Hidden beneath long skirts, they were meant to keep legs warm, neat, and proper, with only the occasional glimpse of an ankle hinting at what was underneath.

What Materials Were Stockings Made From in the early 1900s?

Stockings in the 1900s were still typically made from natural fibers, most commonly:

• Silk - the most desirable option, soft and luxurious, but delicate and expensive.

• Wool - warmer and thicker, worn in colder months or by those who couldn’t afford silk.

• Cotton - durable and practical for everyday wear, though less elegant.

• Rayon (artificial silk) - introduced in the 1910s as a cheaper alternative to real silk, though it didn’t have the same stretch or sheen.

A pair of original Edwardian stockings in a beautiful grey color with my 1910s style oxford shoe Bertha. 

Most women wore cotton or wool stockings every day, while silk stockings were the luxury choice for those who could afford them. Toward the end of the decade, a new invention - rayon, or “artificial silk” - offered a cheaper alternative, though it never quite matched the shine and softness of the real thing.

Colors tended to be dark or neutral: black, brown, beige or white were common but also red, blue and green were available. Often they would be in one solid color, but striped stockings in various colors were also in fashion at the time. Some stockings featured delicate embroidery, lace details, or “clocks” - little vertical patterns at the ankle - for women who wanted (and could afford) decorative motives on their stockings.  

A pair of original Edwardian cotton stockings from my personal collection, with "clocks" on the ankle. 

Why do vintage stockings have seams?

Stockings were usually knitted flat and then seamed, as the technique for circular knitting machines hadn’t been developed yet. The materials also made them less elastic than modern hosiery, and they had to be sew together in the shape of the leg for the best fit. That’s why they were often thicker, denser, and less flexible compared to today’s nylon versions.

The stockings could not stay up by themselves and they were held up by garters or suspenders, often attached to the corset. 

A pair of original Edwardian stockings, with back seam and mended several times on the heel. From my personal collection.

1920s: The Influence of the Flapper Era on Hosiery

In the 1920s, as the hemlines rose, stockings gained visibility, and became a visible accessory to the outfit. While neutral shades were available for creating the illusion of bare legs, vibrant colors like blue, green, and red made their mark along with pastel colors. The stockings were something you could mix and match to your outfit. Nude-colored stockings were more commonly worn by the middle and lower classes, as their neutral shade made them suitable for nearly any dress. Brightly colored stockings, however, were less versatile and typically reserved for party outfits. Because they could only be paired with a limited number of dresses, they were considered a luxury that mainly the upper classes could afford.

Stocking from the 1920s in beautiful colors. From my personal collection.

As 1920s fashion moved away from corsets, a new solution was needed to keep the stockings in place. Enter the girdle. The girdle was a type of undergarment designed to shape and support the waist, traditionally made from elasticized fabrics, giving a more flexible yet streamlined silhouette under clothing, with attached garters to hold up stockings. Worn under the dress, it held stockings securely in place and accommodated the silhouettes of the time. Smaller garter belts also started to make their entrance, but weren’t as common yet.  

A pair of original 1920s stockings in a neutral douche color, paired with our 1920s Yvonne pumps with french heel - a classic look of the 1920s style.

1930s–1940s: The Invention of Nylon Stockings and Wartime Shortages

When Were Nylon Stockings Invented?

Towards the end of the 1930s, the American chemical company DuPont invented nylon and it was quickly named a "miracle fiber."  Its first major application came in 1939, when nylon stockings debuted at the New York World’s Fair. They looked like silk but were cheaper, more durable yet thinner, and easier to produce. Gone were the bright colors of the 1920s, and neutral colors like brown or beige were in. But the accessibility of nylon stockings wouldn’t last long.

A pair of thicker, beige stockings in a nylon cotton blend with back seams from the early 1940s. From my personal collection.

Stockings During World War II: Style Without Nylon

During the 1940s, nylon was diverted to military use, as it was an extremely strong and very lightweight material, which also was cheap to produce. All nylon was now used for parachutes, ropes, tents, and even airplane parts, and stockings disappeared from store shelves. Many women turned to creative solutions, such as painting seams on the backs of their legs with eyebrow pencil to maintain the look of stockings. Others would paint their legs with brown food color, to maintain the illusion of wearing darker stockings. For winter, many would knit their own stockings from woolen yarn to keep warm. Suspender belts or garter belts now became a more popular way of holding up the stockings, replacing the girdle. 

A pair of thick stockings in a light brown melange color from the late 1930s with reinforced toe and heel. From my personal collection.

The Art of Mending Stockings

Because of the rationing on nylon and silk, women had to make do with what they had and get creative. Rips, runs, and holes were inevitable, and throwing out a damaged pair was out of the question. Instead, women would mend their stockings carefully. Some used sewing techniques to stitch small runs, while others used special “run stoppers” or pencils of clear nail polish to prevent a tiny tear from spreading. You could even buy small packages of thin thread in various brown and beige colors for repairing stockings. 

Original 1940s stockings, mended several times, along with specific mending yarn for stockings. This was a part of my small exhibition on 1940s rationing and fashion in my vintage boutique. 

1950s: Glamorous Vintage Stockings and Decorative Seams

Post-War Fashion and the Popularity of Stockings

The 1950s brought a return to luxury and traditional femininity after the war. Stockings were a daily essential, which after the end of World War II slowly started to become available to most women again. They were worn with girdles or garter belts, and in time they became available in a variety of deniers and shades, and much thinner than the stockings of previous decades. What they all had in common was the various shades of nudes and brown colors, as it was in fashion to make it look like neutral shades. For winter woolen stockings were worn to keep warm, along with a pair of woolen shorts under skirts. 

As 1950s fashion embraced a return to more traditional silhouettes, the girdle regained popularity, serving as a modern day corset. Here, Christinna presents original 1950s underwear at my June fashion show, paired with my gold Susan evening shoes

Why Stockings Became a Fashion Statement in the 1950s

Patterns, textures, and colours began to appear, offering more choice for the fashion-conscious woman. The fashion industry even began to use the seam on the back as a decorative touch, producing stockings with seams in bright colors like red, blue or green. Decorative patterns on the heel also became fashionable, sometimes with a cheeky motive. With the greater economic prosperity in the 1950s, women were able to purchase decorative stockings for special occasions, unlike earlier times when stockings were scarce and needed to be versatile enough to go with any outfit. Even today seamed stockings are seen as a glamorous statement, often leading to think of 1950s fashion and elegance. 

Camilla is wearing a classic New Look–inspired outfit that reflects the defining style of the 1950s. Notice the sheer neutral stockings, accented with a bold black seam that serves as an accessory in its own right. This look was featured in my fashion show this past June. On her feet is my 1950s inspired pumps Julia. 

1960s: The Birth of the Pantyhose and the End of Garter Belts

When Were Pantyhose Invented?

First invented in the late 1950s and gaining mass popularity in the 1960s, pantyhose combined stockings and garterbelt in one garment. With the rise of the miniskirt, suspender belts became less practical, and pantyhose emerged as the solution.

Why Pantyhose Replaced Stockings in the 1960s

Pantyhose allowed for shorter hemlines of the skirts, reflecting a shift toward modern femininity. This also aligned with the growing women’s rights movement, as fashion, reproductive choice, and personal autonomy became interlinked symbols of empowerment. The pantyhose became a part of a broader cultural shift celebrating control over one’s own body.

In the 1960s, as skirts grew shorter, pantyhose became the perfect complement to this new fashion trend. Here Stinna is showing a true vintage 1960s dress. On her feet is my Helen shoes, originally designed as a 1930s style shoe, but works well with 1960s fashion too. 

From Neutrals to Bold Statements

Sheer shades dominated the market in the beginning of the 1960s. Nude, beige, and light brown tones were most common, designed to give legs a smooth, natural look while complementing the era’s increasingly shorter skirts and dresses. 

The invention of the circular knitting machine now made it possible to produce stockings and pantyhose without back seams, creating a smoother look, and the pantyhose started to look much like the ones we have today. 

As the decade progressed and fashion became more adventurous, women began experimenting with brighter colors and patterns. Pale pastels like pink, blue, and lavender appeared, while some daring designs included subtle stripes, polka dots, or decorative motifs. This shift reflected the 1960s’ playful approach to style, where pantyhose could add personality and flair to an outfit.

Pantyhose emerged as a bold fashion statement in the 1960s. A spirit Stinna captures perfectly here in an original 1960s dress, styled with vivid red pantyhose and my Ruby shoes.

1980s–Today: Everyday Pantyhose for Work, Fashion and Warmth

Technological Advances in Pantyhose Comfort and Fit

Pantyhose became noticeably more flexible and comfortable starting in the late 1960s and early 1970s, a trend that continued into the 1980s and beyond. This improvement was largely driven by the innovation of Spandex (also known as Lycra), invented in 1958 and gradually incorporated into hosiery. Unlike nylon alone, Spandex added significant stretch and recovery, allowing pantyhose to move with the body. 

Today, pantyhose coexist with a wide range of legwear options. Sheer, opaque, patterned, control-top, maternity, and eco-friendly versions. While pants are often chosen as the everyday wear, pantyhose remain popular for formal occasions, fashion styling, and personal preference. The historical journey from a warm necessity to a versatile fashion accessory highlights how pantyhose reflect shifting societal norms, technological innovation, and changing ideas of femininity and style.

Introducing Our Vintage-Inspired Wool Pantyhose

Our new memery pantyhose offer an instantly classic vintage look, versatile enough to complement styles from every decade and even modern fashion. Here, they are paired with our 1920s-inspired Yvonne pumps.

With this rich history in mind, we’ve reimagined a classic. Inspired by an original pair of 1950s stockings, our new pantyhose combine timeless design with modern comfort.

The memery pantyhose, Anita offers several unique advantages:

• 80% wool for warmth, breathability, and durability. Most woolen pantyhose only have 50% wool in the blend.
  

• A cream grey mélange color with a beautifully structured knitted pattern
  

• Authentically crafted from an original pair of vintage 1950s stockings, ensuring true vintage design.
  

• Available in four sizes: small, medium, large and X-large, with generous stretch for a flexible, comfortable fit.
  

• Designed to pair perfectly with vintage-inspired clothing and shoes, or simply to keep you cosy if you often wear dresses in winter.
  

• A practical pantyhose style, rather than traditional garter-belt stockings, making them accessible and comfortable for the modern woman.
  
  

Our new pantyhose here combined with our 1940s inspired two-tone shoes, Grace. 

Styled with a timeless coat and our elegant Clara Oxfords, this look captures the perfect vintage-inspired charm for crisp fall days.

Whether you’re heading to a winter soirée in a 1950s swing dress or just braving the school run on a frosty morning, they’ll keep you warm, stylish, and connected to over a century of hosiery history. I hope you will enjoy my new vintage style pantyhose very much. 

- Mette

 

Interested in learning more about womens fashion through the years? Check our our blogpost on Edwardian fashion here: 1900's Fashion | How did people dress in the Edwardian era? Or read about the history of the classic Mary Jane shoes here: Mary Jane Shoes: History, Key Features, and Why This Timeless Style Endures

 

 

Sources: 

• Tidens Mode by Anne-Grete Steckhahn

• Vintage Fashion: Collecting and Wearing Designer Classics by Emma Baxter-Wright, Karen Clarkson, Sarah Kennedy, and Kate Mulvey