Are Saddle Shoes in Fashion?
We certainly believe that saddle shoes are a timeless yet distinctive footwear choice, helping an outfit stand out while still maintaining a casual feel. These shoes have a rich and fascinating history, evolving from practical athletic footwear into iconic fashion staples.
Why Are They Called Saddle Shoes?
Saddle shoes are a distinctive style of footwear, characterised by a contrasting "saddle-shaped" strip of leather that arches over the instep and sometimes extends around the heel. They were introduced in the early 1900s, originally designed as a type of athletic footwear. Inspired by Oxford-style shoes, they incorporated the saddle-shaped overlay for added durability and support. Initially marketed as a sports shoe for activities such as golf, tennis, and other recreational pursuits, the sturdy leather saddle provided structural integrity, making the shoe more durable for physical activity.
Everyday Fashion
By the 1930s, saddle shoes had transitioned from sportswear to casual, everyday footwear for men, women, and children. They were frequently worn with school uniforms and became particularly popular among young people. The most classic style featured a white leather body with a black or brown leather saddle. Over time, variations emerged, including two-tone colour combinations and textured saddles. By the 1940s, saddle shoes were strongly associated with the "preppy" look, worn by students in schools and universities. They became a staple of American teen fashion, representing neatness, youth, and wholesome style.
A classic 1940s inspired look with pants, featuring my two tone Grace spectators and my Lisbeth cardigan.
When Were Saddle Shoes Most Popular?
Saddle shoes reached their peak in popularity during the 1950s, largely due to their association with youth culture and rock 'n' roll. They were particularly favoured by young women, often worn with bobby socks and poodle skirts to create the quintessential 1950s look. Celebrities and pop culture further cemented their popularity, as characters in films and television series frequently wore saddle shoes, solidifying their place in fashion history.
Saddle Shoes and Dance
Saddle shoes became synonymous with dance-friendly footwear. Their flat soles and comfortable design made them ideal for jitterbugging, swing dancing, and other high-energy activities, often seen on teenagers dancing in informal settings. Even today, saddle shoes and two-tone designs remain a popular choice for swing dancers worldwide, helping to capture that vintage aesthetic.
Decline and Revival
As fashion trends evolved in the 1960s, saddle shoes gradually fell out of favour. Loafers, trainers, and other modern styles replaced them in younger generations' wardrobes. However, saddle shoes never disappeared entirely. They experienced periodic revivals, particularly within retro and vintage-inspired fashion movements. During the 1980s and 1990s, they regained popularity, especially among enthusiasts of vintage Americana and rockabilly subcultures.
The wonderful @strawberrystarlette and @daveetheewave wearing my unisex Elliot saddle shoes in a stylish 1940's ensemble. What Are Saddle Shoes?
- Saddle Design: A contrasting leather panel resembling a "saddle," often in darker or textured colours.
- Two-Tone Look: Traditional designs featured a white base with black or brown saddles, but many colourful variations exist.
- Flat Sole: A durable, low-heeled design with a rubber or leather sole, suitable for casual and active wear.
- Association with Youth Culture: Strongly tied to the mid-20th-century youth movement, particularly in the United States.
What Are Two-Tone Shoes Called?
Two-tone shoes feature two distinct colours in their design, creating a contrasting or complementary visual effect. The term is broad and applies to various shoe styles, from formal to casual, across different constructions and materials.
What Is the Difference Between Saddle Shoes and Spectator Shoes?
Saddle shoes and spectator shoes are both classic vintage footwear styles featuring contrasting colours, but they differ significantly in design, history, and purpose. While both fall under the category of two-tone shoes, they have distinct characteristics.
Saddle Shoes
Saddle shoes are generally defined by a contrasting saddle-shaped leather panel that spans across the instep (midfoot) and may extend to the heel. The saddle is typically darker than the rest of the shoe, which is often white or a lighter colour or even a different material, such as suede.
- They are typically a low-heeled Oxford shoe with a closed lacing system.
- Colour combinations often include black or brown, though other variations exist.
- Introduced in the early 1900s as an athletic shoe, originally designed for sports such as golf and tennis, before transitioning into casual wear.
- By the 1940s and 1950s, they became a key youth fashion staple, especially in American schools, and were associated with preppy fashion, bobby socks, and 1950s teen culture.
- Primarily casual footwear, designed for everyday wear and sporting activities, often worn with school uniforms, casual outfits, or retro/vintage styles.
- Designed with practicality and durability in mind.
Our Elliot saddle shoe is inspired by 1950s youth culture. It is a unisex design made for both men and women, crafted from suede and featuring cognac brown full-grain leather with a brogue pattern on the backstay and around the vamp. The outsole is made from lightweight rubber with white stitching on the welt. The Oxford-style closed lacing makes it a classic saddle shoe of the era.
Spectator Shoes
Spectator shoes, on the other hand, feature a two-tone colour scheme with a contrasting toe cap, heel, and sometimes the quarters or vamp. Unlike saddle shoes, they lack a saddle-shaped panel, with colour placement typically on the front (toe) and back (heel) of the shoe.
- Generally considered a more formal shoe.
- Typically a Derby shoe with open lacing at the front.
- Traditionally made in white or cream with black, brown, or other dark colours, though many combinations are possible.
- First introduced in the late 19th to early 20th century, initially designed as a dress shoe for attending outdoor sporting events such as cricket or horse racing.
- Rose to popularity in the 1920s and 1930s jazz era, often worn by stylish men as a semi-formal to formal shoe, typically paired with suits or dress trousers.
- Has a sleeker, more refined look compared to the casual saddle shoe.
Our Grace shoe is a classic two-tone spectator shoe in brown and white. It features a full brogue pattern, tasselled shoelaces for closure, an almond-shaped toe cap, and an open Derby lacing, making it a quintessential spectator shoe.
If you're interested in learning more about the history of classic and timeless shoe designs, you can read the history of the everlasting Oxford shoe right here: Oxford and Derby shoes: An Everlasting Classic
Source:
- Vintage shoes - Caroline Cox
- Shoes - An Illustrated Story by Rebecca Shawcross
