The 1920s were a decade of radical change, not just in culture and society, but in fashion. Amid flapper dresses, jazz music, and the exuberance of the Roaring Twenties, a revolutionary style emerged that blurred the lines between masculine and feminine: the Garçonne look. The Garçonne style was more than a trend; it was a manifesto that continues to influence fashion nearly a century later.
Western Fashion Before the 1920s: Victorian Roots and Gender Separation
Before the 1920s, Western fashion was rooted in Victorian traditions, which emphasized strict distinctions between men’s and women’s clothing.
This strict separation reinforced gender norms: men’s clothing symbolized authority, mobility, and power, while women’s clothing symbolized delicacy, decorum, and domesticity. Clothing reflected a rigid social order, leaving little room for personal freedom, comfort, or self-expression for both men and women across gender.
The post–World War I era would dramatically change this dynamic. As millions of men went off to war, women stepped into typical mens jobs, managed households, and discovered a newfound sense of independence and earned their own money they could spend however they liked. When the war ended, they weren’t willing to slip quietly back into traditional gender roles, especially in fashion.
What Was the Style in the 1920s?
The 1920s were a decade of fashion revolution. Women abandoned long hair and elaborate dresses for clothing that allowed freedom of movement and self-expression. Designers like Coco Chanel championed this boyish silhouette, emphasizing comfort, practicality, and sophistication.
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Silhouette: Straight, boyish shapes with dropped waistlines and loose, tubular dresses.
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Hair: Sleek bobs or Eton crops
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Accessories: Spectators or Mary Janes, long pearl necklaces, tailored jackets, and cloche hats.
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Makeup: Bold lips, rouge, thin brows
Kristina showing a classic 1920s inspired look in original 1920s clothes from my personal collection. From my fashion show in May 2024.
What Does Garçonne Mean?
The term ‘la garçonne’ is the feminine form of the French word ‘garçon,’ meaning ‘boy.’ Popularized by Victor Margueritte’s 1922 novel La Garçonne, it described a young woman who defied societal expectations: cutting her hair short, wearing menswear-inspired clothing, and pursuing her desires freely.
The word quickly became shorthand for modern, independent, and daring women, mostly women experimenting with menswear clothing like trousers and shirts.
What Is Garçonne Style?
The Garçonne style wasn’t only women wearing men’s clothing. It was about merging masculine and feminine aesthetics into a bold, expressive look. By pairing crisply tailored shirts and trousers with pearls, red lips, and high heels, the style created a look that was confident, sensual, and creative. Strength, rebellion, and elegance weren’t tied to gender, the Garçonne style redefined what it meant to be a modern woman.
Key elements of 1920s Garçonne fashion included:
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Menswear-inspired clothing: Tailored jackets, trousers, vests, neckties and shirts
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Androgynous elegance, combining classic menswear items with feminine coded details like pearls, bold lipstick, and high heels
American "It girl" and actress Louise Brooks in wide legged pants ca. 1927
Icons of the Garçonne Era
The 1920s and 1930s were defined by women who embodied the Garçonne ideal:
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Louise Brooks the silent film star with a glossy black bob and enigmatic stare
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Josephine Baker the African-American entertainer who blended sensuality and independence on the Paris stage
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Coco Chanel the designer who made practical elegance revolutionary
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Marlene Dietrich whose tailored tuxedos and smoldering gaze made androgyny glamorous, famously appearing in Morocco in a men’s tuxedo and kissing a woman on-screen
Dancer and entertainer Josephine Baker in a white tie suit with top hat in the 1920s.
When Wearing Pants Was Revolutionary (and Sometimes Illegal)
The garçonne style symbolised freedom and modernity but it wasn’t just a cultural statement. In some places, it was literally illegal for women to wear trousers. In Paris, a 1800 police decree required women to obtain permission to “dress like a man,” a law that technically remained in force until 2013, though long ignored. Gradual relaxations came with amendments in 1892 and 1909, which allowed women to wear trousers if they were “holding a bicycle handlebar” or “reins of a horse.” Across the United States, similar “cross-dressing” laws could see women fined or arrested for simply wearing trousers. Even in Britain, where no explicit ban existed, trousers were considered scandalous well into the early 20th century. The garçonne’s tailored suits and androgynous silhouettes were a bold rebellion against social and legal boundaries.
Marlene Dietrich wearing a traditional white tie suit in the 1930 film "Morocco".
The Legacy of Garçonne Style
By the 1930s, the boyish silhouette softened, but the Garçonne spirit endured. Designers like Yves Saint Laurent, Jean Paul Gaultier, and Hedi Slimane have reinterpreted the look through sleek tailoring, tuxedos, and gender-fluid designs.
In film, Diane Keaton as Annie Hall (1977) brought Garçonne chic into modern times with oversized blazers, vests, and wide trousers. Similarly, Julie Andrews in Victor/Victoria (1982) embodied the playful, androgynous elegance of the Garçonne style, performing convincingly in a tuxedo while blending masculine tailoring with feminine charm. Both examples demonstrate how the 1920s fusion of masculine and feminine elements continues to influence contemporary fashion and performance. To this day, the Garçonne look is still it re-emerged in popular culture as a symbol of gender fluidity and freedom, blending fashion, politics, and identity.
How to Create a Garçonne Look Yourself
The Garçonne look is all about blending traditionally masculine tailoring with traditionally feminine touches, creating a style that’s confident, chic, and independent. Here’s how to achieve it:
1. The Silhouette
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Look for tailored blazers, vests, trousers, or button-up shirts. Oversized or slightly boxy jackets give that classic Garçonne feel and high waisted trousers with wide legs.
2. The Hair
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Bob or short crop: The iconic Garçonne hairstyle is sleek and short. Modern variations include blunt bobs, pixie cuts, or Eton crops.
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Styling: Keep it smooth and polished in a bun, or add slight waves for a playful 1920s vibe.
3. Add Details
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Pearls and jewelry: Long pearl necklaces or brooches add a feminine touch to structured clothing. Use neckties and hats like fedoras or paperboy caps.
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Bold lips: Classic red or deep berry lipstick contrasts beautifully with menswear-inspired outfits.
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Makeup: Keep eyes and brows defined but simple. Thin brows were in fashion during the 1920s and 1930s.
Here we have created a Garconne in spired look with our 1920s specttaors, called Frances.
4. Choose the Right Shoes
Mary Janes or T-straps: Perfect for a vintage Garçonne feel.
The Helen T-strap is an elegant late 1920s to early 1930s inspired pump.
Flat or heeled oxfords: Add a modern twist to a traditional mens wear shoe.
Our Juliettes are a classic pair of 1930s inspired oxfords with a block heel.
Spectators: Also traditionally a menswear shoe, used for sporting events, and comes in both flat or heels versions and were worn a lot by both men and women in the 1920s and 1930s.
Frances is a timeless 1920s style spectator in brown and white, perfect to complete the Garçonne look.
5. Own the Attitude
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The Garçonne look isn’t just about clothes, it’s about confidence and self-expression. Stand tall, move freely, and wear your style unapologetically like the Garconnes in the 1920s.
The Garçonne look wasn’t just about clothes, it was also a movement. It marked the moment when women stopped dressing for others and started dressing for themselves. Nearly a century later, its influence remains, shaping how we think about gender, style, and self-expression, and can still evoke.
Want to learn more about womens fashion in the 1920? Take a look at our blogpost: 1920’s Fashion | Discover the Styles of the Roaring Twenties. Or take a deep dive in to the history of an iconic gender bending item of the early 1900s: The spectator shoe in our blogpost: The History of Two-Tone Spectators: A Vintage Icon
