The Second World War had a significant impact on fashion during the 1940s. Read on to explore how both women and men dressed during this time and find some fashion inspiration.
Functional Elegance and Resilient Style
Fashion in the 1940s was heavily shaped by World War II (1939-1945), a time when resources and materials were scarce, and many countries imposed textile rationing. This led to a more practical and austere style, though there was also a strong desire for elegance when circumstances allowed, offering an escape from the hardships of war.
This look, which includes trousers and my Rosemary cardigan with a fair isle print, is inspired by the 1940s. The boots are my Robbie boots, which are inspired by an original military boot from that time.
'Make Do and Mend'
During the war, fashion became centred on practicality and functionality. Many women entered the workforce, taking on roles traditionally held by men, which led to trousers becoming more widely accepted as everyday wear. Jumpsuits and overalls became popular workwear, particularly for women working in factories or on farms. Clothing was typically made from durable materials such as wool, cotton, and rayon, as luxurious fabrics like silk were used for wartime production (for example, in parachutes).
1940s Working-Class Women’s Fashion
Rationing meant women had to get creative with their wardrobes. The "Make Do and Mend" trend emerged, where old clothes were repurposed or new garments were made from recycled materials. Skirts were shortened to save fabric, often sitting just below the knee. Long coats, simple blouses, and A-line skirts became typical styles. Women also got inventive with hats, bags, and accessories, using scraps of ribbon, fabric, buttons, and even telephone cords to personalise their items. As a result, 1940s hats often featured creative, unusual, and sometimes obscure designs.
Military uniforms had a considerable influence on fashion, particularly with sharp shoulders and tailored silhouettes. Shoulder pads became popular, creating a broad-shouldered, narrow-waisted look.
Although the focus was on practicality, women still made efforts to maintain an elegant appearance. Hair and makeup became expressions of optimism and resilience, and evening gowns and glamorous clothing were worn for special occasions, often adorned with pearls or brooches for added elegance.
1940s Upper-Class Women’s Fashion
Upper-class fashion in the 1940s was also shaped by the effects of World War II. While rationing limited the availability of luxury fabrics, the wealthy still managed to display their status through refined, elegant styles.
The 1940s saw a shift to more tailored, structured silhouettes. The wartime "utility" dress, typically made from rationed materials like wool or rayon, featured simple lines with functional details such as pockets and modest necklines. Evening wear for the upper class featured glamorous yet practical designs like A-line skirts and tailored jackets. Fabrics like silk, velvet, and taffeta were used for formal events, though silk was heavily rationed. Accessories like fur stoles, pearls, and elaborate hats were popular, and women styled their hair into soft curls or beautiful updos to reflect a glamorous look.
New Look: A Post-War Fashion Revolution
After the war ended in 1945, fashion underwent a dramatic change. One of the most iconic moments came in 1947 with Christian Dior’s "New Look." This style, which was a reaction against the austerity of wartime fashion, featured voluminous skirts that reached mid-calf, narrow waists, and soft, rounded shoulders. At a time when large parts of Europe were still rebuilding after the war’s devastation, using so much fabric for extravagant skirts and luxurious designs seemed provocative. However, for many, the "New Look" symbolised a longing for beauty, luxury, and normality after years of hardship.
This walking suit is an original 1940s suit, inspired by the "New Look." It features a fitted waist, wider hips, and feminine details. The look is completed with my 1940s inspired pumps, the Esther pumps.
Men’s Fashion in the 1940s
Men’s fashion in the 1940s was also shaped by the war. Many men wore military uniforms, and civilian men were also affected by clothing rationing, meaning that suits became simpler and more streamlined with fewer details to conserve fabric. Trousers were high-waisted and often had a straight or slightly narrow cut. Hats, particularly fedoras, remained an essential part of men’s fashion, and more casual items like sweaters and sports jackets became popular in men’s wardrobes.
1940s Working-Class Men’s Fashion
For working-class men, workwear generally consisted of simple trousers or overalls paired with button-down shirts or work jackets. Fabrics like wool, denim, and durable cotton were commonly used. Footwear was sturdy, such as leather boots or shoes designed for physical labour. With many men enlisted in the military, khaki trousers and field jackets, influenced by military uniforms, became common in civilian wear. Knitted sweater vests, often made from scraps of yarn, became a popular everyday item for men.
1940s Upper-Class Men’s Fashion
Suits were the cornerstone of upper-class fashion for men, though they became more restrained during the war due to fabric shortages. After the war, suits were typically single-breasted with a more streamlined silhouette, broad shoulders, nipped-in waists, and higher waistlines for trousers. Heavier fabrics like wool or tweed were commonly used, and muted colours like grey, brown, and navy were popular. For evening events, men wore tuxedos with shawl or peak lapels, accessorised with cufflinks and bow ties.
1940s Women’s Shoes
Just like clothing, 1940s shoes were subject to rationing, so they had to be practical and durable. Leather was in short supply, so alternative materials like cork or wood were used for soles, and spotted hide sometimes replaced leather. The practical Oxford shoe remained popular for both men and women, and pumps became a common choice for women. After the war, more glamorous shoes with high heels made a return, including evening sandals decorated with cut-outs and peep-toes.
Emily is my classic 1940s-inspired Oxford. These Oxfords have a sturdy heel and feature cut-outs and a rounded toe.
If you’re interested in exploring another fashion era, you can read our guide to 1950s fashion. Or, if you’re a fan of shoes like we are, you may enjoy learning about the Pompadour Heel.
Sources:
- Shoes - An Illustrated Story by Rebecca Shawcross
- Tidens Mode by Anne-Grete Steckhahn
- Vintage Fashion - Collecting and Wearing Designer Classics by Emma Baxter-Wright, Karen Clarkson, Sarah Kennedy, and Kate Mulvey
- Vintage Shoes by Caroline Cox